Lactic Acid Bacteria Plushie Pattern

The lactic acid bacteria from Cells at Work season 2 were too cute for me not to make them! Here’s the quick pattern I made if you’d like to make your own. I’m also currently selling the finished plushie on Etsy here!

Materials: medium worsted weight in preferred color/colors, felt for face, paint for eyes, stuffing

Hook: Size H/8 (5.00 mm)

Body

You can either make the body as two halves and sew them together, like I did on the black/tan one, or make the whole thing in one piece. The single-color bacteria lend themselves easily to being done as one piece, but the two-color ones can be done either way depending on how you want the color change seam to look.

Using top color:

R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each sc (12)

R3: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] around (18)

R4: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] around (24)

R5: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] around (30)

R6: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc] around (36)

R7: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc] around (42)

R8: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc] around (48)

R9-12 (4 rows): sc in each sc around (48)

R13: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc] around (54)

R14-21 (8 rows): sc in each sc around (54)

R22: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc] around (60)

R23-26 (4 rows): sc in each sc around (60)

**If making the body as two separate pieces, sl stitch in the next sc and F/O. Then skip down to “Bottom Half”. If making the body as a single piece, continue with the pattern below.**

Change yarn color if applicable

R27-36 (10 rows): sc in each sc around (60)

R37: [dec, sc in next 8 sc] around (54)

R38: [dec, sc in next 7 sc] around (48)

R39: [dec, sc in next 6 sc] around (42)

R40: [dec, sc in next 5 sc] around (36)

R41: [dec, sc in next 4 sc] around (30)

Begin stuffing at this point if you haven’t already and continue to stuff as you go along.

R42: [dec, sc in next 3 sc] around (24)

R43: [dec, sc in next 2 sc] around (18)

R44: [dec, sc in next 1 sc] around (12)

R45: dec around (6)

F/O. Weave tail through stitches and pull tight to close hole. Skip the “Bottom Half” instructions and go straight to the arms.

Bottom Half

Using bottom color:

R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each sc (12)

R3: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] around (18)

R4: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] around (24)

R5: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] around (30)

R6: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc] around (36)

R7: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc] around (42)

R8: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc] around (48)

R9: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc] around (54)

R10: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc] around (60)

R11-20 (10 rows): sc in each sc around (60)

Sl st in next sc, F/O

Using the long tail from the top half, sew the top and bottom halves together, stuffing once you’ve attached ~3/4 of the circumference.

Arms (make 2)

R1: 6 sc in magic ring

R2: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] around (9)

R3-8 (6 rows): sc in each sc around (9)

Stuff

R9: [dec, sc in next sc] around (6)

R10: sc in each sc around (6)

F/O. Leave tail to sew to body. If doing a 2-color body, I recommend sewing one arm to the location where the color change is most visible (even if you do the body as two separate pieces, the jump will still be fairly visible). You can see below how the line doesn’t line up on either side of the arm but the arm hides the jump:

Horns (optional, make 2)

Using cream color:

R1: 4 sc in magic ring

R2: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] around (6)

R3-4 (2 rows): sc in each sc around (6)

R5: 2 sc in next 2 scs, sc in next sc, dec, sc in next sc (7)

R6: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next 2 scs, sc in next 4 scs (9)

R7: sc in each sc around (9)

R8: sl st in next 5 scs, sc in next 4 scs (9)

F/O, leaving tail. Fill with small amount of stuffing. Use tail to sew horns to top of head.

Lastly, it’s time to attach the face! I cut out the face pieces from felt and hot-glued them to the plushie. I also used acrylic paint to make anime-looking eyes on the white felt eyes.

And that’s it! A happy lactic acid bacterium to scale with the show!

Marvel Patterns

After finding the paper patterns I used to make this blanket, I was finally motivated to upload them! The pdfs for the pattern I used and the letter font (for ease of switching out the names) are here:

Marvel PatternsDownload

AlphabetDownload

This pattern is 301 stitches wide and noticeably imperfect. The circles are shorter than they are wide and they’re just flat-out not symmetrical. The vertical/horizontal distortion works out well for crochet, since crochet stitches are taller than they are wide, and the imperfect symmetry evens out to the eye since the logos are so large, but if you’re a real perfectionist, you may want to do some work to make the edges line up correctly. The Spider-Man logo is the only one that is actually symmetrical. X-Men is probably the worst offender…I’m amazed it looks ok in the finished product after looking back at the mess of a pattern I made.

That’s really all I’ve got to offer here. For details on how I made this blanket, see the original blog post. And feel free to leave questions and comments below!

Super Smash Patterns

For more info about the construction of this blanket, see the original blog post!

Click here for a pdf with all of the grids!Download

Otherwise, feel free to click through the gallery below for a specific grid. Some of the pictures came out higher quality than others…honestly I don’t know why. You’ll notice that there’s one extra square than what I put in my blanket; I drew up a pattern for Metal Gear even though I didn’t end up using it, so I figured I’d post it.

I used US size 8 needles and added an extra row all around each square since I lose a stitch when I sew the pieces together using the mattress stitch. I estimate each square used 80 m of yarn for each of the two colors.

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As always, I would love to see what you make if you make something using these patterns! Leave a comment, send me an email at createmarvelous@gmail.com, or reach out to @createmarvelous on Instagram with your photos!

Tekkadan Cardigan Pattern

Materials: 7 skeins Caron Simply Soft: 1 in Off White, 6 in Dark Sage

Hook: US G/4.25 mm

Gauge: 19 chains = 4″, 12 rows dc = 4″

Size: M (39.5″ bust, 29″ length)

Stitches used: chain (ch), double crochet (dc), yarn over slip stitch (yo-sl st)

I used this pattern to make the general shape, and modified the stitches used to match the look I was going for. If you’ve never worked with multiple colors and carrying yarn through the stitches, I suggest you look up how to do that before making the chest/back piece!

Chest/Back

This section of the cardigan is made as one whole piece that is stitched together at the shoulders leaving two arm holes:

The beginning chain is the leftmost edge of the piece. Graphically, this is what you are crocheting:

Row 1: Using green, ch 72, then dc into third ch from hook and dc across (70)

Row 2-19: dc across (70)

Row 20 (RS): dc into the first 34 stitches, leaving the last 36 unworked (34)

Row 21-23: dc across (34)

Row 24 (RS): dc across (34), then ch 38

Row 25 (WS): dc into third ch from hook, then dc across (70). I recommend crocheting into the front loops so the transition from crocheting into the chain to crocheting into the dcs is more seamless.

Row 26-36: dc across (70)

Row 37 (WS): dc into first 26 st, switch to white and dc 1 st, then switch back to green for the last 43 st. At this point, the graphical representation of the pattern will be more helpful than the words, so here’s a closer view of the Tekkadan logo pattern. Notice the 3 stitch decrease and increase to shape the neck at rows 44 and 62/63 (do it the same way you did rows 20 and 24/25).

Rows 70-81: dc across (70)

Rows 82-87: repeat rows 20-25

Rows 88-105: dc across (70)

Waist

This part is real simple, you just have to make 44 granny squares with 4 rounds. I used this method, but any granny square will do. Pick a style you like and start your granny square factory!

Pockets (make 2)

Ch 30 and dc across until you have 27 rows. These numbers are what worked for me, but your end goal is to have a rectangle that is the size of 6 of your granny squares put together in a 3×2 arrangement.

Pocket Borders (make 2)

Ch 6. Working in the back bumps (see here for an explanation of back bumps), yo-sl st across, skipping the first loop (should have 5 st after the first row). Continue yo-sl st in back loops only until you have 16 ribs (or your piece is the same length as 2 of your granny squares placed end to end).

Initial Assembly

Time to begin assembly! The reason I recommend starting the assembly now is so that you can figure out how long your borders need to be.

The first step is sewing all of your granny squares into a functional waist. I chose to sew the squares together using black yarn to showcase the square pattern a little more. You’re making a 4×11 grid of squares, but don’t sew along the lines highlighted in red and keep the left and right sides of the red circles separate (don’t stitch across the red circles). Those outlines are where the pockets will be sewn in, so they can’t be attached yet.

Next, you can add the pockets! Each pocket sits against the 6 squares in the lower corners and the pocket border sits next to the top and middle squares in those 6:

The best order to sew the pieces is to 1) sew the vertical seam that attaches the pocket border to the two granny squares and attaches the bottom granny square to the bottom of the pocket.

Then 2) sew the horizontal top seam that attaches the top side of the pocket border to granny squares and continues to attach the top of the pocket to the two granny squares.

Then 3) sew the lower horizontal seam that attaches the bottom side of the pocket border to granny squares and continue across attaching only granny squares.

Then finally 4) sew the upper part of the pocket to the two granny squares that are somewhat covered by the pocket border.

After this, sew the chest/back piece to the waist and sew the shoulders to each other along the top.

Inner Border

All of the borders are done the same way as the pocket borders, just with different widths of ribbing.

For the inner border, ch 13, then yo-sl st into back bumps, skipping the first ch (should have 12 st after the first row). Continue yo-sl st across until you have enough ribbing to go up the side of the cardigan, around the neck, and back down the other side. For me, this was 162 ribs:

Bottom Border

Ch 9, then yo-sl st into back bumps, skipping the first ch (8 st after the first row). Continue yo-sl st across until you have enough ribbing to go around the bottom of the cardigan, including the inner border. For me, this was 106 ribs. Make sure when you sew it on, you sew through both the granny squares and the pockets on the inside so the pockets can actually hold stuff.

Sleeves (make 2)

Row 1: ch 74, dc in third ch from hook, dc across (72)

Rows 2-4: dc across (72)

Row 5: skip first dc, dc across, end in second to last dc (70)

Rows 6-8: dc across (70)

Continue this pattern of decreasing 2 stitches every 4th row until you have 52 stitches (41 rows)

Rows 42-50: dc across (52)

Sleeve Border (make 2)

Ch 9, then yo-sl st into back bumps, skipping the first ch (8 st after the first row). Continue yo-sl st across until you have enough ribbing to go around the sleeve openings. For me, this was 26 ribs.

Stitch everything into its final shape and you’re done!

As always, let me know if you have any questions about the pattern by leaving a comment here or contacting me on Instagram (@createmarvelous). This was a much more detailed pattern than anything I’ve done in the past, so I expect everything won’t make perfect sense.